A initially look at the rigorously limited menu at Concura tells you this is not your common Houston Italian cafe. Cod liver foie gras, fish ragu above dwelling-made chitarini, “tomato bread bowl”… what is heading on here in the city of countless carbonaras, pizzas and stuffed ravioli?
I’ve managed for many years now that “when in doubt, open an Italian restaurant” is a way to make lender in this town. Houstonians appear to be to have an infinite hunger for the comforting verities of the delicacies as it has been interpreted here. In this uncertain pandemic age, that has been doubly legitimate.